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Getting Around Madagascar

The bush taxi is how the country moves, and the FCDO advises against it

Updated 4 min read

The quick answer

Madagascar's public long-distance transport is the taxi-brousse, the bush taxi: a minibus or converted truck that leaves when it is full and stops whenever someone waves. It is how the country moves, it is cheap, and the FCDO advises against using it because of the risk of robbery.

We are not going to pretend that advice does not exist, and we are not going to pretend the vehicles do not. Here is what both mean for a visitor.

What the advice actually says

The FCDO records frequent armed robberies on main roads, particularly at night and outside major towns. It advises driving in convoy where possible, using a recognized tour operator or asking your hotel to arrange transport, keeping doors locked and windows closed particularly in Antananarivo, and it advises against using multi-passenger taxi vans because of the risk of robbery.

If you are attacked in a vehicle, its advice is not to resist or argue, since the criminal may be armed: stay calm and comply.

And it warns that criminals have falsely claimed to be police. Ask for identification if you are stopped.

The roads that carry specific warnings

  • RN7, Antananarivo to Toliara: criminal gangs have attacked vehicles traveling in convoy on this road. It is also the classic overland tourist route, which is exactly why the warning matters.
  • RN35, and the RN1 between Tsiroanomandidy and Maintirano: use a recognized operator, because of violent highway robberies particularly at night.
  • RN27, RN10 and RN34: maintain a high level of vigilance.
  • The southern triangle between Ihosy, Toliara and Fort Dauphin: tense, worse at night, roads in poor condition. Use a recognized operator, and travel to Fort Dauphin by air.

The realistic options

Private vehicle with a driver

For most visitors this is the answer, and it is what the FCDO's advice points at: a vehicle arranged through your accommodation or an operator, driven by someone who knows the route. It is not cheap by local standards and it is the difference between the advice above applying to you and not.

Internal flights

Madagascar is large and slow, and the domestic network exists for that reason. Flying removes whole categories of risk and whole days of driving. For Fort Dauphin the FCDO says to fly, in terms. For other long legs it is a budget question rather than a safety one, but it is a real option and should be priced before the itinerary is fixed.

Taxi-brousse

Cheap, sociable and genuinely how people travel. The FCDO advises against it. If you take one anyway, that is a decision to make knowingly rather than by default: travel in daylight, keep luggage with you, and do not carry more cash than you are prepared to hand over.

In town

Use pre-booked taxis or hotel transport rather than hailing, particularly after dark. This is the same advice in every city guidance for Madagascar and it is not elaborate.

What a day actually looks like

Plan on averages far below what a map implies. Surfaces vary from good tarmac to graded earth within a single leg, ferries and river crossings run on their own schedules, and the standing advice to move in daylight caps the usable day at both ends. A drive that looks like four hours is a day.

Build in spare days, especially in the wet season, when unsealed roads in the west can close entirely. See Madagascar Weather Guide and Madagascar Travel Safety Guide.

Sources