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Rwanda Food Guide

Beans, bananas, brochettes, and very good coffee going out of the country

Updated 4 min read

The quick answer

Rwandan cooking is built on beans, bananas, cassava, sweet potato, maize and greens, cooked carefully and served generously. It is not a heavily spiced cuisine and it is not trying to be. The national lunch is a buffet, the national evening is brochettes and a beer, and the produce is exceptional because almost everything is grown a short distance from where it is eaten.

The buffet, which is the thing to understand first

Across Rwanda, the standard midday meal is a buffet, often called melange: you pay a set price and take what you want from a spread of rice, beans, plantain, cassava, potatoes, greens, sometimes meat or fish, and a sauce to bring it together. It is quick, inexpensive and how most of the country eats lunch on a working day.

If you do one food thing on a Rwandan trip that is not arranged for you, eat a buffet lunch somewhere ordinary. It will tell you more about the place than any restaurant with a view.

What is on the plate

  • Beans. The foundation. Rwanda grows and eats a great many varieties, and a good bean stew is a serious dish rather than a side.
  • Plantain and cooking banana. Bananas here are a staple crop, not a snack. Matoke style cooked plantain appears constantly.
  • Cassava and sweet potato. Boiled, roasted, and as cassava leaves cooked down into isombe, which is one of the dishes most worth seeking out.
  • Ubugali. A firm cooked starch, usually of maize or cassava flour, eaten with sauce. Elsewhere in the region it goes by other names.
  • Brochettes. Skewered grilled meat, most often goat, sometimes beef or fish, and the center of an evening out. Ordered with grilled plantain and eaten slowly.
  • Sambaza. Tiny lake fish from Lake Kivu, fried crisp and eaten whole. A Kivu specialty and very good with a cold drink at the water.
  • Tilapia. The other Kivu fish, usually whole and grilled.

Coffee and tea, and an honest note about both

Rwanda produces outstanding coffee and a great deal of tea, and the hills you drive through between Kigali and Nyungwe are largely tea. Specialty coffee culture in Kigali is real and growing, and there are good roasters and cafes worth an hour.

The honest part: the finest lots are grown for export, and historically the coffee easiest to find in an ordinary Rwandan cafe was not the coffee that made the country’s reputation. That has changed considerably in Kigali and less so outside it. If you want the good stuff, buy it from a specialist roaster in the city, and buy it to take home.

Drinks

Local lagers are widely available and inexpensive. Urwagwa, banana beer, is the traditional drink and is an acquired taste that is worth acquiring at least once, ideally somewhere it is made rather than somewhere it is sold. Fresh juice is excellent. Tap water is not recommended for visitors, and bottled water is universally available.

One caution that applies worldwide and is worth repeating: there has been a rise in serious illness from drinks containing methanol, which cannot be identified by taste or smell. Buy spirits from licensed premises.

Eating well as a vegetarian

Straightforward, and better than in many places. The buffet is built on beans, plantain, cassava, rice and greens, and meat is frequently the smallest component rather than the center. Say what you do not eat and it is usually no trouble at all. Vegans should ask about the sauce.

A note on the produce

Rwanda is intensively farmed, which is the first thing you notice from the air and the thing that explains the food. Markets are excellent, fruit is seasonal and picked close by, and a market visit with someone who can explain what you are looking at is among the better hours of a Rwandan trip. Our money guide covers what to carry for one.

Planning with LABUSA Travel

We will build in a proper market morning and a buffet lunch somewhere real, and we will tell your hosts about dietary requirements in advance rather than at the table.

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