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Mozambique Food Guide

Peri-peri, coconut, cassava and the longest coastline on the channel

Updated 4 min read

What Mozambican food is

It is an Indian Ocean cuisine with a Portuguese accent. Cassava, maize and rice underneath; coconut, cashew and chili through the middle; and the longest stretch of Indian Ocean coastline on the Mozambique Channel supplying the rest.

Three histories meet in it. The Swahili coast, trading north and east for centuries before the Portuguese arrived, brought coconut, spice and rice. Portuguese contact brought bread, olive oil, wine and the technique of grilling with garlic. And the wider Portuguese world brought the chili itself, which is not native to Africa and which Mozambique made into something of its own.

Peri-peri, and what it actually means

Peri-peri, or piri-piri, is both a small hot chili and the sauce built around it, usually with garlic, oil, and citrus or vinegar. Peri-peri prawns, grilled over charcoal and served with a wedge of lemon, are the dish most associated with this coast, and are worth the reputation.

Ask how hot before you commit. The range between a tourist restaurant's version and a local one is wide, and the polite thing is to ask rather than to suffer through it.

Dishes to look for

  • Matapa. Cassava leaves cooked down with ground peanut, coconut milk and garlic, often with prawns or crab. This is the dish to order if you order only one.
  • Grilled fish and seafood. Whatever came in that day, over charcoal. Ask what is fresh rather than reading the menu.
  • Xima. The maize staple, firm and starchy, the base a great deal of food is served on.
  • Cassava and coconut rice, which do a lot of quiet work in a coastal kitchen.
  • Cashew nuts. Mozambique has a long association with the crop, and roadside cashews are one of the better things you can buy from a stall.
  • Pão, the Portuguese-style bread roll, and strong coffee, which is how a great many mornings start.

Eating well without getting ill

This is the part of a food guide people actually need, and there is no reason to be coy about it.

  • Water. Drink bottled or properly treated water and use it for brushing your teeth. The FCDO records a cholera outbreak in central and northern areas, which is a waterborne disease, and that raises the value of a habit that is worth having anyway.
  • Ice. If you are unsure about the water, be unsure about the ice.
  • Street food. Not to be avoided; to be chosen well. Busy stall, high turnover, cooked hot in front of you, eaten hot. That is a better filter than any rule about categories of food.
  • Fruit you peel yourself.
  • Seafood from somewhere with turnover, and cooked through. On a hot coast the enemy is time out of refrigeration, not the fish.
  • Carry rehydration salts. See the packing guide.

One thing that is a health rule rather than a food rule, because it applies whatever you eat: malaria is present countrywide and the CDC recommends prescription medicine to prevent it for everyone traveling to Mozambique. Dinner outside at dusk is exactly when covered arms and repellent earn their place.

Eating as a guest

Meals are social and unhurried, and being rushed is the visitor's problem rather than the kitchen's. If you are eating in a home, a small gift is welcome, eating with the right hand is the norm in many households, and accepting at least a little of what is offered matters more than finishing it. Ask before photographing food someone has cooked for you, and certainly before photographing the people at the table.

Vegetarian and other diets

Coconut, cassava leaf, beans, rice, peanut and vegetables carry a lot of this cuisine, so vegetarian eating is workable, but a dish that looks plant-based may be built on a seafood stock. Ask, and ask specifically. Allergies are harder: carry a written card in Portuguese, the official language, rather than relying on English in a small kitchen.

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