Menu

Cape Verde Food Guide

Cachupa, and the Atlantic on a plate

Updated 3 min read

What Cape Verdean food is

It is island cooking built on what grows on dry volcanic soil and what comes out of the Atlantic, with a Portuguese accent and a West African foundation. That combination is the country in a sentence, and it is on the plate more clearly than anywhere else.

Cachupa

Cachupa is the national dish and the thing to eat first. It is a slow-cooked stew of hominy maize and beans with whatever else is available: cassava, sweet potato, squash, and either fish or pork and sausage depending on the household and the occasion.

It is cooked in quantity and it improves overnight, which is why the version most visitors fall for is cachupa refogada, the leftovers fried the next morning with an egg on top. That is breakfast here, and it is a better breakfast than the hotel buffet.

The ingredients are worth noticing at a market, because they explain the dish: sacks of dried maize and beans stacked beside cassava roots is not a picturesque display, it is the recipe.

Fish

The Atlantic here is cold, deep and productive, and the fish is the reason many people remember the food. Tuna is the headline and is often served as a steak rather than the tinned-fish ghost most visitors know. Wahoo, grouper and moray all appear. So do lobster and limpets, the second of which is a local specialty prised off the rocks.

Order fish grilled and simple. The kitchen is not trying to do anything clever to it and does not need to.

The rest of the table

  • Goat, stewed, which is the meat the landscape actually supports.
  • Pastel, a fried corn-dough parcel usually filled with tuna, sold as a snack.
  • Bananas and papaya from the irrigated valleys, which taste of something.
  • Coffee from Fogo, grown on volcanic soil in small quantity, and genuinely good.

Grogue

Grogue is the sugarcane spirit, distilled mostly on Santo Antão, and it is the national drink. You will be offered it. Ponche is the sweetened version with honey or molasses and lime, and it is the one most visitors prefer. Treat both with the respect you would give any spirit made without much interest in dilution.

Eating safely

The FCDO names shigella and salmonella among the health risks here, which is the ordinary food and water caution rather than a warning about the cuisine. Drink bottled or treated water, be thoughtful about salads and ice outside established places, and eat the grilled fish without a second thought.

Sources