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Food and Drink in Bolivia

Salteñas before eleven, a thousand potatoes, and the markets where people actually eat

Updated 4 min read

Bolivia is not a country people arrive expecting to eat well in, and it is one they frequently leave having changed their minds. The cooking is regional, it leans on ingredients the Andes gave the world, and its best expressions are cheap and unpretentious.

Start with the salteña

The salteña is a baked pastry with a braided seam, filled with a stew of meat, potato, peas and olive, sweetened slightly and made deliberately juicy. It is a mid morning food: salteñerias open early, sell out, and close. If you go looking for one in the afternoon you have missed it.

There is a technique to eating one without wearing it. Hold it upright, bite off a corner at the top, and drink the liquid before you go further.

What the highlands eat

  • Potatoes, in a variety that will reset your idea of the word. Bolivia and Peru between them hold thousands of varieties. Look for chuño and tunta, potatoes freeze dried on the altiplano by a process that predates the Inca and keeps for years.
  • Quinoa, grown on the plateau and eaten here as a staple rather than as a health food, most often in soups.
  • Pique macho, a large shared plate of beef, sausage, potato, egg, tomato and chilli that arrived from Cochabamba and conquered the country.
  • Silpancho, also Cochabambino: pounded breaded beef over rice and potato with an egg on top.
  • Sopa de mani, peanut soup, which sounds improbable and is one of the best things in Bolivian cooking.
  • Api, a hot purple maize drink, usually with a fried pastry, eaten at breakfast in the cold.

What the east eats

Santa Cruz and the lowlands are a different kitchen: yuca instead of potato, plantain, more grilled meat, cheese breads such as cuñapé, and majadito, a rice dish with dried beef. If your itinerary crosses from the plateau to the east, the change in what is on the plate is one of the clearer signals that you have arrived somewhere else.

Markets

Every town of any size has a market with a cooked food section, and that is where people eat. Portions are large, prices are low, and a bowl of soup followed by a main is the standard order. Choose a stall that is busy with local customers and where food is being cooked to order rather than sitting.

Coca

Coca leaf is legal in Bolivia, culturally important, and widely chewed or taken as a tea, particularly in the highlands where it is offered to new arrivals as a matter of course. It is worth knowing that coca leaf and products made from it are prohibited in many other countries, including the United States, and that taking any home is a serious matter at the border. Leave it in Bolivia.

Water and eating carefully

  • Drink bottled, boiled or properly treated water, and use it for brushing teeth where the supply is uncertain.
  • Be careful with ice and with drinks diluted from tap water in places where you are unsure.
  • Raw salads and unpeeled fruit are the usual place travelers come unstuck; peeled and cooked are safer bets.
  • At high altitude you dehydrate faster than you notice. Drink more water than you think you need, which the travel safety guide also says for a reason.

Drinks

Singani is the national spirit, distilled from muscat grapes grown at altitude in Tarija, and the chuflay is the standard way to drink it. Tarija also produces some of the highest vineyards in the world. Beer is good and widely available. And mate de coca is what will be put in front of you when you arrive somewhere high and look tired.

Sources

  • Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: Bolivia traveler health: a yellow fever vaccination certificate required for all arriving travelers aged one year and over, and separately a vaccine recommendation limited to travelers aged nine months and over going to areas below 2,300 meters east of the Andes, namely the entire departments of Beni, Pando and Santa Cruz and designated areas of Chuquisaca, Cochabamba, La Paz and Tarija, with the vaccine not recommended above 2,300 meters; malaria risk recorded in areas below 2,500 meters and none recorded in the city of La Paz. Accessed 17 September 2026.
  • UK Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office: Bolivia travel advice: the index to the entry, safety, regional and health pages this cluster draws on, the advice against all but essential travel to the Chapare region of Cochabamba Department, the State of Emergency under which police and armed forces may detain a person who does not comply for up to eight hours without charge, and the standing guidance that no travel can be guaranteed safe. Accessed 17 September 2026.